Ang Suba kang Pan-ay kag Tacayan

It was a good day, considering the moderate blast of the scorching sun, for an adventurous trek to the highlands of Tapaz, Capiz. I was travelling to Brgy. Tacayan for some field work. The name Tacayan took itself from a legend, that once there was a group of men carrying their caught baboy talonon or wild boar and seen takay-takay or carried on their shoulders as they passed the said area, hence the name Tacayan.  As expected, the path was rocky and unpaved, thanks to our motorcycle driver who managed through the potholes and steep climb. Brgy. Acuña was the end of the road, there we disembarked and head on foot for an hour until we reached the river. My guide has prepared a balsa or bamboo raft to drive me upstream through the enchanting Pan-ay River, the main artery or the longest river in the Island of Panay distributing freshwater through the farmlands and bulk water supply to the province of Capiz and Northern Iloilo.  I have long heard the place, and the mystery of it excites the adventurous spirit in me to find out what is there and on it. Though I am still dozens of miles away from the head of this river, I could feel the life that drives this river flowing- the mountains of Central Panay.

The enchanted Pan-ay River at the junction of  Alitugpan Creek.

My guide, a family friend and a native of Brgy. Tacayan, navigates the river like a skier, gliding through the still and rapids of the river with a bamboo pole. I had to disembark each time we pass a shallow part, so he could pull the raft easily. Visible on the river banks are lush foliage of old trees, and audible are the sounds of a vibrant, bio diverse forest. The high cliffs on both sides are like the arcs to the entrance of heaven. The stone formations are as if carved by the hands of God himself. I felt at peace hearing the water splash as our raft slice through the surface of the calm water. We passed by several waterfalls, and I was captivated by the artistry of nature in carving these amazing landmarks. I wanted to dive into the waters to cool down but my below average swimming skills halted me. I also brought with me limited clothing for lighter baggage as I take the unbearable hike. Alas, we reached the dock and above it was the Barangay Proper of Tacayan. For two days, I roamed around the barangay and was taken away by the simplicity of life. People here lived a modest life ploughing their fields or clearing foliage for their kaingin, checking their baits for any caught wild animals or fowls on the forest, and eels and fishes in the river. A tagay or drinking session at sundown  after a day’s labour is all it takes to recharge them for the next day.

My guide exerts his might in pushing the raft forward.

 I finished my task and went home with my experience of the place. That with our busy workdays, hectic office grinds, and complicated social relationships, sometimes we need to see life in a different perspective. Tacayan is a community at peace with nature and the thriving culture they have lived with and protected through the ages.